Journal-Diagonale

Avec une notoriété qui dépasse les portes du Gers et s’étend au-delà du Sud-Ouest, le marché au gras de Samatan n’est autre que le plus gros marché au gras mondial. « Nous voyons circuler de 400 kilos de foie à une tonne pendant les fêtes », explique André Bacca, régisseur du marché au gras depuis 40 ans. Rénovées en 2010, les halles accueillent entre 100 et 120 producteurs l’hiver, et une quarantaine d’entre eux l’été.

Des habitués qui font le succès de ce « Palmipode », « qui ne propose que des produits de qualité certifiés, et qui subit des contrôles d’hygiène  constants », développe Didier Villate, vétérinaire et responsable sanitaire du marché. « Un bon canard doit être bien rond et rebondi, avoir la peau claire, et peser 5 kilos au minimum. Le foie quant à lui doit être souple », conseille Didier Villate. Ici, le canard est un sacerdoce, et tout est mis en place pour que le client soit conquis : découpe offerte par des bénévoles de la Comtesse Du Barry et des Ducs de Gascogne de Gimont, visites de grands chefs cuisiniers… En effet, les étoilés Hélène Darroze, Bernard Bach, Cyril Lignac, ou encore André Daguin- inventeur du magret grillé-, ont honoré de leur présence le fameux marché.

La foire au gras organise d’ailleurs « Le Festival De Cannes Des Canards », qui décerne, avec autant d’humour que de professionnalisme, la « Palme D’Or » du meilleur producteur. Une animation organisée dans le cadre du « Gascon’h à table », un événement dont la 12e édition aura lieu cette année. Trois jours de novembre qui brassent des milliers de visiteurs, venus profiter des multiples animations autour des arts de la table et des palmipèdes gras. Un temps fort qui précède celui des « Volailles Festives » ; trois week-ends avant les fêtes de fin d’années, durant lesquels les halles ouvrent leurs portes aux chapons, poulardes, dindes et pintades chaponnées. « Que ce soit par ses manifestations, ou ses simples rencontres hebdomadaires, ce marché est un lieu de rendez-vous incontournable », expliquent Florence et Didier Laporte, gaveurs de Baran, présents sur le marché depuis quatre ans.

 

Zoom sur JOËLLE TEILH, ARNAUD et GILLES CASAGRANDE, producteurs de « La Ferme du Casteilh ».

Venus tout droit des Hautes Pyrénées, les producteurs  de « La Ferme Du Casteilh », travaillent en famille. Joëlle gère les marchés et le contact avec la clientèle. « Au départ, je travaillais uniquement à l’abattage. Désormais, je suis plus en charge de l’aspect commercial ». Ce matin, elle est accompagnée de son fils Arnaud, âgé de 20 ans. Voilà cinq ans que ce dernier côtoie les halles, et se familiarise avec le métier. Gilles, le père, est éleveur depuis près de 35 ans. Malgré un avenir destiné à la maçonnerie, il s’est reconverti à l’agriculture, et tient d’une main ferme l’exploitation céréalière et la production de canards. Un savoir-faire qui leur a valu le premier prix du « Concours Foie Gras Et Canards » de Bagnères de Bigorre. Georgette Tainton, habituée des halles depuis 40 ans, vient de clore les négociations avec Joëlle, et raconte : « Je viens régulièrement acheter des foies et des carcasses de “ La Ferme Du Casteilh”. C’est un vrai moment de partage ; où nous échangeons nos recettes et nos astuces culinaires ».

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