Journal-Diagonale

© Hélène Ressayres

Réputée pour ses viandes d’exception, la « Brasserie Du Carré Vert » donne à surprendre. Avec ses pièces venues d’Argentine, d’Ecosse, d’Irlande, du Japon, ou encore du Chili, la maison fait voyager les papilles. Une sélection qui n’a d’autre raison qu’une perpétuelle quête minutieuse de qualité. « Ces pays laissent aux bêtes le temps de vivre. Cela leur confère un goût, une couleur, et une texture incomparables ; en France, beaucoup de producteurs abattent les bêtes bien plus tôt, et il y est difficile de trouver une telle qualité », analyse Thierry Fossat, responsable cuisine du « Carré Vert ». Des viandes que le restaurant achète à 15jours, et qu’il laisse maturer dans ses propres caves. Des morceaux qui reposent jusqu’à 45 jours pour l’entrecôte, et de 2 à 3 mois pour les côtes de boeuf. Une technique qui apporte tendresse à la viande, rendant sa saveur imbattable.

Thierry Fossat
© Hélène Ressayres

« Il est important pour nous de faire découvrir aux gens des viandes qui sortent de l’ordinaire. Les habitués suivent d’ailleurs nos suggestions et conseils, et se laissent guider selon les arrivages », développe Thierry Fossat, responsable cuisine du « Carré Vert ». Les non coutumiers devront donc se familiariser avec les Picanha de Wagyu, ou encore le carpaccio de faux-filet de Galice. Mais la maison donne aussi toute sa confiance à certains producteurs locaux : ainsi, l’agneau des Pyrénées provient de Saint-Gaudens, et l’Aubrac de Rodez. Dans cette recherche de saveur d’exception, la brasserie fabrique elle-même les jus de viande qui accompagnent chaque morceau : « Nous prenons le temps de couper les os, les peaux et le gras, pour en faire des jus au goût incomparable. Les choses de qualité ne se font pas dans la précipitation. Idem pour notre agneau ; si on peut le couper sans couteau, c’est parce que nous avons pris le parti de le préparer en cuisson lente. Arriver au goût et à l’excellence prend du temps », conclut Thierry Fossat.

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